Finally scored perfect P-Pass! Super glassy and BIG barrel!!
In addition to those perfect waves, the best part of this trip was to get
to know one of my hero,
ROBIN JOHNSTON, who got second place in standup contest at Sunset 2011.
I wanted to enter this event but I got broken rib from January trip to
Micronesia...SO I was watching online LIVE cast at home and was just amazed
by him ripping big Sunset. Then I just happened to see my SENSEI and he
is watching me surf!! I am very glad I could surf surprisingly well, made
many barrel. I got good shots during last trip, but didn't make many. It
was my mission to make barrel, not just pull in.
I found Robin-san was super friendly and nice guy. It was unreal experience
to be able to know someone
I looked up to. Arigato Gozaimasu, Robin-san!!
I also would like to thank Mitchyell Ferris at ppasssurf.com for taking those great foto...U da best!!!
All foto by Mitchyell Ferris.
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| Super glassy and clean |
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| I clearly remember this one...Waves were big this morning and there were
mixture of swell from@NW, N, NE, so need to pick right one. I think I wasn't
ready at this time but Hardcore coach/boatman Dooma Oswald looking at me
and his full face was telling "GO!!", so I went. The foto might
not show but it was big and heavy wave. Here, I was so scared and trying
to hold my line for my life. |
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| I lost my control and dove trying to stay away from@my board as far as
I could. You don't want to hit by those big buggah. This wipeout was pretty
bad, probably one of my worst wipeout ever, which ripped off my paddle
and it was never seen again. Just dispired. I was so beaten up with cuts
and bruise all over and I had to stay on boats for a while after that to
retreat my confidence. |
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| The set broke just the edge of reef where deep water suddenly met shallow
reef. At place like this, when swell gets bigger, you don't measure the
size of waves by hight, but by thickness. Waves doesn't get too tall but
it get thicker! It was just big black water that bottemed out poped out
from nowhere and you turn around and start paddling...It is the most terrifing
moment because there is so much water sucking out and it dosen't like you
are going forward...You feel like paddling on running machine or something.
Then all of the sudden, tail of your board is lifted up and you are launched!!
Especially on Standup, once you start paddling, you can not backoff at
the last minute. So if started to go, you have to go...That's pretty scary
to me. |
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| After swell peaked out, there were still plenty waves and sheet glass.
It was just like video game... |
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| Sometimes you push too hard. This one I was pushing myself too deep. |
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| That is my Sensei, Robin Johnston watching me... |
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| And that is another Sensei, James Labrador watching me... |
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