KOHEI-SAN-SURF
TYPHOON 2010>Typhoon#12, MALAKAS
Sep. 25, 2010: After looooooong flat spell all this summer long, typhoon MALAKAS finally sent us good east swell.
I was haapy to be able to surf this right hander again.
But honestly, I am getting tired of this waiting game.
You wait, wait, wait,wait for long long time and score maybe a couple times a year,
nobody out, absolutely all to yourself. Do you think it's worthy? I don't know...
Maybe time to think moving to somewhere more swell...like South Africa or Chile next??


Wave weren't giant, but nice peeling waves with some hollow inside section.
Tide was perfect, high tide of full moon. Covering all those shallow rocks.

Offshore wind was kinnda strong but keeping the barrel wide open.






Prepin' on the beach. Foto: Ueyama-Cam.






Shame I pulled back this one. Thoghta I was in too deep.
Wish had a ball to push myself going over the ledge...What do you think?

I didn't make this one. Good beatuful wall, though.


Foto: Ueyama-Cam


On this one, wind lifting up nose and leaded to late takeoff. I didn't know if I could make it but went anyway.
Sometimes you get lucky.













Same wave, differnt angle. Foto: Ueyama-Cam.

Note the chop and boil. There msut be some bad rock underneath.
Sometimes it's good not knowing what's going on you. Foto: Ueyama-Cam.



Foto: Ueyama-Cam

Lucky boy, Shiota-san, catching wave of the day.






















Another nice one, Shiota-san, again! Foto: Ueyama-Cam

Lonley Standup paddler, Ueyama-san.
No luck catching waves this day, but lucky not breaking his SUP board after getting 5 waves on his head.
I was scared by just watching him and his board hammered from the channel.
...Good challenge, keep trying!! Foto: Ueyama-Cam

It was close...Ueyama-san. Foto: Ueyama-Cam

One of the set I missed this day. Foto: Ueyama-Cam
It is amazing that this place is still empty. Nobody surf here while nearby point break was packed with 50 poeple.
I want to see more young kids charging on big day.


KOHEISAN TV! Vol.7: Typhoon#12: MALAKAS



Special thanx: Arigato-Gozaimasu to ueyama-san and his friends for those great foto!!
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