| KOHEI-SAN-SURF | |||
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| TYPHOON 2008 |
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| RAMMASUN (Typhoon#02) The first typhoon swell of this year! I was really excited in anticipation of surfing big south swell. Unfortunately, it was really windy and I had to wait the wind calm down a bit. The swell were eventually shifted easterly so I headed to my favorite east swell reef to check it out. It was really big and looked pretty good. Not much wind, neither! At the chekout point, I happen to met this surfer, Munetoyo-san. I was happy to see him there on the good day because I had always been surfing there by myself everytime and I was not sure if this point is really a surfspot or not. He was alone and excited what he found here. So we chatted a bit and gone out. Although wave looked good, it was really hard to catch waves. 7-8 waves on single set and there was no chance you can get into waves from normal lineup. You had to be careful or could be slammed by rocks under the rips. By the middle of session, it was almost closing out the channel. It was the first time I was scared by at this surf spot. Munetoyo-san looked relaxed and managed to catch some on his thin 7'4". He became my hero this day! I only caught one wave and silpped off on the bottom and slammed pretty good. I was shamed... He is a pro surfer but still maintains the soul of surfer which is supposed to be kinda tough., I guess. After this session, we drived around and looked for more secret spot. At one place we drive down up to end of road and climbed down the hilly jungle to get to a lonly beach where not many people ever been to...Did we find new waves?? You guess it... Next day, the swell dropped a lot but some clean swell were left. I checked out another reef and it was as good as it gets! Special thanks to Munetoyo-san, you da best!! |
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 Morning glory.  You think this windy?  It gets more windier!         another bettah one...        Searchin'... Foto: Kenchan  And more searchin'... Foto: Muneoyo  What we found this day... Foto: Munetoyo  Tanks! Foto:Kenchan |
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