This typhoon is prety much the first typhoon swell to surf for me this year.
I haven't surfed since this January and eager to surf.
This is good size typhoon and I expected some good waves.
Only consideration is that it is rainy season now in Japan and there's this big front
laying across Japan. The thick moisture from typhoon blows into the front and results
heavy rain...weater forecast says... Well, I get out anyway and see what happens!
|At first, I started to check this point which forms perfect bank in small
Although the swell wasn't really showing yet,
it was just peeling perfectly...
I can't wait to see how it breaks with bigger swell. It got to be amazing...
I waited 2 days at that left points and it never got big.
So I desided to search little more.
I heard about this point a couple years ago and always the must place to go.
Finnaly I got there!
Perfect left peeling with morning glass.
Left or right, whichevah way you like...
This is just amazing wave. it reminds me the wave in Lagundri bay, Nias.
Although waves were only sholder to head high, I could see its potential.
It can be dream wave with 6 foot swell...
Looking down those waves from the hill behind,
it looks like town(Waikiki)in Hawaii.
I guess this kine of reef setup is rare.
I won't happen that often. But when it happens, it's just amazing place...
Low tide reef.
A local told me that the channel between the reef has been dug 4-5 years ago.
There was Looooong perfect right peeling along the reef right side..
which you never be able to see again.
What a distruction...
Well, I paid a little price this time.
I was eager to surf next morning with bigger wave. It ended up ugly blownout maddness.
Oh well, maybe next time...
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