| SUDAL Typhoon No.1, 2004.April.13-15 | |
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2004.4.13 cloudy Swell: Developing SW/S Wind: Light offshore/slight onshore Arrived for the dawn patrol. Found still smallish but clean swell. This is the first time surfing of this year for me. I took 9'00'' gun, hoping its floatation helps my paddle. Even so, very hard to paddle. I guess I lost all of my paddling musle in winter. But I managed a couple good ride. Water is still surprisingly cold there. I was shaking in the lineup with 3mm fullsuit hoping Onsen(hot spring) is open soon... In that late evening, the swell picked up. I surfed outside left. Only one guy whom I know out and good swell wrapping into the point. Worth that long paddle to get there. However, I was kooking myself by keep wiping out, not really ready...yet. Slept like baby... |
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2004.4.14 rainy/cloudy Swell: SW/S Wind: Offshore all day! I was super exhausted by yesterday's surfing. Woke up at 10am and all of my body ache. Went to check the waves anyway. It got definitely up, but not as big as I expected. There were so many people out. TV crews were shooting the action, too. Surfed the right afternoon, got some good ride. TV crew was on the boat anchoring in the channel. I hope they captured mine and show on TV! |
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The left was going off. It looked fun with fair offshore wind (note it
often has strong wind). Guys were making steep drop and some getting barreled
out there... |
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Some big sets coming in... |
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Barreled! |
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and barreled... |
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still barreled... |
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Ouch!! |
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On the way looking for less crowded wave, I found some mysto waves. There was nobody out... |
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The mysto peak... |
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2004.4.15 Sunny! Swell: Maxing S to SE Wind: Gusty offshore Expecting swell swicth to east, I stayed this secret spot. Woke up and found it still coming from south. Beautiful sunrise. It was sunny all day. Both the left and right was bigger than yesterday. So lucky we had good swell on this early season, hopefully this year gets a lot of good typhoon swell. I surfed the right. The strong off shore wind making take off bit hard. But once you made take off, you pump, pump and pump... to race toward the channel. .It was so much fun. I surfed for 4 hours... |
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How come no surfing photo for the day third? Well, I was too busy to surf, brah! Kazu, John and Sakai-san, Mahalo plenny! You da best! |
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