Typhoon No.13, 2004 Aug. 10-12
Shikoku had really heavy rain in the end of July. All the river mouth has been opened up and formed perfect sand bar. I could not have surfed at all since I got injured with a broken rib in this June. It has been over a month but I still have sharp pain when I strech my body backward. I was so bummed that I had to cancel the second glorious Bohemian trip which I had always been dreaming of. I knew I am not ready yet, but I just didn't want to miss that beautiful I give it a try.
It ended up somewhat smaller than I expected and I could see I was NOT really ready yet for surfing. I was sticking to boogieboard all the time and my weak leg was crying about muscle pain...but, hey, I was happy enough to taste those pretty little barrel...

Right and left, both way is fine.
This right is looking pretty good, but the left is also sweet...
End of MALAKAS All photos by Kohei Shirakawa
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