Typhoon No.13, 2004 Aug. 10-12
|Shikoku had really heavy rain in the end of July. All the river mouth has
been opened up and formed perfect sand bar. I could not have surfed at
all since I got injured with a broken rib in this June. It has been over
a month but I still have sharp pain when I strech my body backward. I was
so bummed that I had to cancel the second glorious Bohemian trip which
I had always been dreaming of. I knew I am not ready yet, but I just didn't
want to miss that beautiful tube...so I give it a try.
It ended up somewhat smaller than I expected and I could see I was NOT really ready yet for surfing. I was sticking to boogieboard all the time and my weak leg was crying about muscle pain...but, hey, I was happy enough to taste those pretty little barrel...
|Right and left, both way is fine.|
|This right is looking pretty good, but the left is also sweet...|
|End of MALAKAS||All photos by Kohei Shirakawa|
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